Prior to the fair, vendors sold ice cream in glass cups or dishes called “penny licks” that were returned, rinsed and reused. During the exhibition, however, the St. Louis Globe-Democrat noted a novel sight—fairgoers were eating ice cream out of “an inverted cone of hard cake, resembling a coiled-up waffle.”
Proving the adage that “success has many fathers,” several people claimed to have invented the ice cream cone at the 1904 World’s Fair, including Ernest Hamwi. As a 16-year-old recent immigrant from Syria, he sold zalabias—waffle-like pastries from the Middle East—at the “Constantinople on the Pike” exhibit. According to Hamwi, when a neighboring ice cream concession ran out of dishes, he rolled a zalabia into a funnel shape for use as an edible container.
“This idea seemed to go over big,” he told a St. Louis newspaper decades later, “and soon the ice cream concessions all over the fair purchased the rolled waffles from us and sold them with the cream and called them ‘cornucopias.’” After the fair, Hamwi worked as a traveling salesman for the Cornucopia Waffle Oven Company before starting his own ice cream cone company in 1910.
Although the ice cream cone may not have been born in St. Louis—an Italian immigrant in New York City, Italo Marchiony, patented a mold to make 10 ice cream cones at a time in 1903 and claimed to have served them since 1896—the World’s Fair quickly made it a popular novelty at seaside resorts, county fairs and amusement parks. “Being new and toothsome, it is said to be the best money-maker for fairs and public gatherings yet devised,” the Roanoke Evening News reported in 1905. Given its historical connection to the fair, the ice cream cone became Missouri’s official state dessert.
Puffed Rice
Dr. Alexander Anderson made quite a bang at the World’s Fair. Visitors waited 30 minutes or more to watch Anderson’s thundering cannons blast blizzards of puffed rice inside the Palace of Agriculture.
The botanist had discovered that when he smashed airtight, super-heated glass tubes filled with powdered starch, the sudden pressure drop caused the starch to puff to eight times its size as the water inside vaporized and expanded. Anderson received a patent in 1902 for his invention, and the American Cereal Company, maker of Quaker Oats, acquired it to produce puffed rice and puffed wheat breakfast cereals.
The puffed grains proved a hit at the World’s Fair as visitors thronged the American Cereal exhibit to see—and hear—Anderson’s puffing machine in action. Fairgoers bought more than 20,000 pounds of caramelized puffed rice in St. Louis, and many sent home samples of the tasty treat later branded as “The Food Shot from Guns.” Anderson’s invention, which the Michigan Tradesman dubbed “The Eighth Wonder of the World,” revolutionized breakfast and led to the production of popular cereals such as Rice Krispies, Kix and Cheerios, along with snack foods such as Cheetos.
Jell-O