Giant sequoias are only found in one place—a 250-mile stretch of forest along the Western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains. They grow at high elevation, between 4,000 and 8,000 feet, and are clustered into roughly 70 groves. Before logging came to the Sierra Nevadas, one of the largest and most majestic of those groves was the Converse Basin.
“Here were thousands upon thousands of patriarchal forest giants stretching so high they almost blotted out the sky,” writes Hank Johnston in his seminal 1966 book, They Felled the Redwoods. “Here was a sylvan paradise filled with colorful wildflowers, lush grasses, and a variety of animal life. Some timber experts say that the Converse Basin contained the finest examples of Sierra redwoods [giant sequoias] to be found anywhere on earth.”
For centuries, the Converse Basin was a hidden paradise. It sat at 6,500 feet in a bowl-shaped depression ringed with cedar, fir and more than 8,000 giant sequoias.
“It was a spectacular place,” says Tweed.
In 1891, the Kings River Lumber Company harvested 20 million board feet of lumber from lower elevations, mostly fir, pine and cedar. But given the expense of its logging operation, it still wasn’t enough for the company to turn a profit. In December of that year, the company announced that it would be extending its logging operation deeper and higher into the Sierras, where it had secured rights to the Converse Basin.
“We must increase our volume to justify the enormous investment of the mills, railroad and flume,” wrote a company official. “We plan to move our railroad to the northeast where the really big trees are located. Next season should be highly profitable.”
Taking Down a Giant Sequoia
In 1892, the Kings River Lumber Company began logging the Converse Basin, home to giant sequoias with 15- to 20-foot diameter trunks.
“The best technology in the 1890s for cutting down these trees was a combination of hand tools and steam power,” says Tweed.
Loggers used the same technique to fell a giant sequoia that they used with smaller trees. First, they had to make a V-shaped “undercut.” To do that, they built a platform 25-feet high so they could reach the softer part of the trunk. Then two men—one left-handed and one right-handed—started chopping away with double-sided axes.
The loggers—mostly Swedish, Polish, German, Irish and Norwegian immigrants—worked 11-hour days, six days a week. It took each two-man crew several days to hack their way to the center of a tree, leaving behind an undercut tall enough for them to stand inside.
The same men would then go to the other side of the tree and grab each end of a long, two-handled saw. Heaving back and forth, they made one continuous cut back through the trunk toward the undercut. Every foot or so, they hammered in 24-inch steel wedges to prevent the tree’s incredible weight from snagging the saw.
When only a few inches remained between the back cut and the undercut, the loggers used even more wedges and powerful blows from a sledgehammer to topple the sequoia in the direction of the undercut.
“The crash was like the roar of a raging sea beating upon a rocky shore,” writes Johnston. “Dust and debris filled the air. The great stump, relieved of its burden of centuries, quivered for many minutes in a series of paroxysmal reactions. The ground trembled and shook as if struck by a mighty earthquake. A life, several thousand years in the making, had been snuffed out in a moment.”
The loggers soon learned that the biggest sequoias, when felled, would sometimes smash to pieces under their own weight. So they started making “felling beds”—clearing the target landing area of smaller trees and boulders, and even laying down branches and leaves to create a cushion.
Dragging, Chuting and Milling
“Chopping down a giant sequoia is just the beginning of the challenge,” says Tweed, “because now you’ve got a 200-foot long, 15-foot diameter log sitting on the ground. What do you do with it?”
The logging companies built a sawmill in the heart of the Converse Basin to rough-cut the downed logs into manageable-sized pieces. But first they needed to get the logs to the mill. Sequoia trunks were too big and heavy to be dragged by teams of horses, so that’s where steam power came in.
Outside the sawmill were two “steam donkeys.” These were large, steam-powered winches that used long cables to drag felled sequoia logs through the forest. To guide the logs on their journey, the companies built a network of “chuteways”—lanes made from parallel rows of smaller logs. “Grease monkeys” lubricated the chutes so fires wouldn’t spark from the friction of dragging the massive logs.
Once at the Converse mill, the logs were run through a 90-foot bandsaw, the longest saw in the world at the time. The rough-cut lumber was then loaded on train cars and hoisted up the mountain by another powerful steam winch. From there, the lumber took a short train ride down to Millwood, a California boomtown where the wood was finally cut into boards and set out to cure in the sun.
A tremendous amount of labor went into turning a giant sequoia into a pile of 2x4s, but it wasn’t over yet. The lumber still needed to travel 54 miles to Sanger, California, where it would be loaded onto railcars and shipped across America. There was only one way to make the last leg of the journey from Millwood to Sanger: the log flume.
Transporting Logs via Flumes