“She was a great example of an early female businesswoman,” says Day, who calls her head for commerce “remarkable.”
So was her ice cream. Marshall’s skill at inventing new, exciting varieties was so legendary that she became known as the “Queen of Ices.” Ice cream hadn’t always been accessible to average people: Though it was invented in the fifth century, its reliance on refrigeration meant that only the very wealthy could eat it. That changed around the time of Marshall’s birth, when a Swiss immigrant to England named Carlo Gatti began importing Norwegian ice to London and selling ice cream at a stand. Suddenly, the growing middle class was clamoring for it.
Marshall was there to give it to them. She invented a series of dramatic and complex dishes that would put any modern restaurant to shame. “The range of flavors was well beyond anything we have yet revived in Michelin-starred restaurants,” says Day. “We have forgotten how sophisticated 19th-century food could be.”
Take Marshall’s cucumber ice cream, which used cucumbers, lemon peel, sugar, cream, pistachios and vanilla. The concoction was frozen in one of Marshall’s signature cucumber molds. So was Marshall’s duck ice cream, which called for foie gras, cayenne pepper, aspic and one of her molds, complete with realistic glass eyes. She even made ice cream using asparagus—and encouraged people to buy her patented, five-minute ice cream freezer to make it themselves.
Before Marshall, says Day, elaborate dishes were mainly cooked by male chefs who were bred and trained in Europe. Marshall’s work spread those techniques to women and changed the way food was prepared and served. In your kitchen, you likely feel many of her influences today, like her campaign for farm-to-table food, her encouragement of technology like ice cream machines, and the use of ice cream cones (she published the first known recipe in 1888).
But World War I nearly killed off Marshall’s legacy—and the world’s taste for finicky, extravagant food—for good. “It was food that suited [a] Victorian world,” says Day. Instead of laboring in kitchens, the women Marshall trained found themselves on the battlefield, where they worked as nurses, or performing wartime tasks on the homefront.
After the war, these women—and the soldiers returning home after years of military rations—stopped cooking Marshall’s elaborate dishes. “The last thing they wanted was an ice cream molded in the form of a pair of courting doves or a cauliflower,” says Day.